Itineraries

Coastal Castle Trail

• Distance: 30 miles by car
• Suggested time scale: Two days
• Public transport available to Craster & Castles

An introduction to the Coastal Castle Trail

Rebellion, battles and bloodshed has played out on Northumberland’s soil for hundreds of years

Behind every stone, secrets and tales can be found when Scandinavia met Anglo-Saxon England, the Normans raged against the Vikings and the Scots clashed with the Romans, Normans and English.

With raids and wars a way of life in England’s border country, it’s unsurprising that Northumberland has such a high number of diverse castles.

Like sentries, many stand guard by the coast warding against threat by sea. Take a tour around Northumberland’s finest coastal castles with us and discover the secrets behind the spectacular forts spanning the shoreline.  

Dunstanburgh Castle

The eerie ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle leer upwards like prehistoric bones on a 15-foot basalt cliff which juts out to form the southern end of Embleton Bay.

Its ruins today belie the massive fortress Dunstanburgh was when built in the 14^th century by Earl Thomas of Lancaster.  Perhaps in a bid to oust stage his rival and cousin King Edward II rather than create a military stronghold against the Scots,  Thomas ordered the construction of a magnificent gatehouse with twin drum-towers, fit to compete with the new Royal castles of Wales. 

When relations between Thomas and the Edward II finally broke down, Thomas fronted a rebellion against the king. But Thomas was captured, his rebellion defeated and tried for treason and executed in 1322.

Besieged and twice captured during the War of The Roses, Dunstanburgh spiralled into decay. Owned by the National Trust, Dunstanburgh is maintained and managed by English Heritage.

Little-known history

Thomas’s execution at the priory of St John Pontefract Castle was particularly grisly. His executioner, an inexperienced axe man, took over 11 blows to sever the unfortunate Thomas’s head from his body. The spectre of Thomas’s tortured body is said to haunt the ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle, carrying its mutilated head in its arms.

One of the best things about visiting Dunstanburgh Castle is the 1.5-mile coastal walk to reach this dramatic ruin. Whatever the weather, the sea views and sight of Dunstanburgh’s looming ruins are spectacular.  Leave the small fishing village of Craster heading along Dunstanburgh Road and the cliff path. Nearing Dunstanburgh Castle, go through a kissing gate. Bear right to visit the castle.

Dunstanburgh Castle was painted by Turner three times, his most famous rendition being in 1798, titled Sunrise after a Squally Night.

Media contact: Kate Galloway English Heritage, Gardiner-Richardson, 0191 261 4250.

Follow the Coastal Castle Trail...

Distance from Dunstanburgh to Bamburgh – 13.5 miles (40-minute drive).

By car: Pick up the B1339 heading through Embleton. Take the B1340. Travel along the coastal road passing through Seahouses continuing to Bamburgh.

By bus: Arriva 501 Alnwick – Bamburgh boarding at Craster.

Bamburgh Castle

-17 miles north of Alnwick

Towering 150 feet above miles of breaker-blasted beach line, Bamburgh Castle dominates the north Northumberland coastline. Once home to the Royal Kings of Northumbria in Anglo Saxon England, Bamburgh was the first castle in England to fall to gunpowder during the War of the Roses in 1464. Centuries later the castle was a decaying ruin and was bought by Tyneside Industrialist and engineer the first Lord Armstrong as a decaying in 1894 for £60,000. Lord Armstrong transformed Bamburgh Castle into the architectural masterpiece it is today.

Little-known history

Bamburgh Castle was home to the world’s first coastguard system. Look out to sea from Bamburgh’s battlements and you’ll see the Farne Islands in front of you.  Depending on the tide, there’s between 15 – 20 islands as well as treacherous hidden offshore reefs.

Bamburgh began a pioneering coastguard system in 1781, thought to be the first of its kind in the world. Under the orders of Dr John Sharp, enlightened chair of Bamburgh’s Crewe Trustees in the 18^th century, the castle acted as a coastguard station: A gun was fired from the castle ramparts in foggy weather, in stormy weather watch systems and beach patrols were mounted, while massive iron chains (now on display in the Keep Hall) were on hand to haul floundering ships to safety.

In 1786, Dr Sharp launched what is believed to be the first ever lifeboat. The castle also took in shipwrecked mariners and even covered the burial costs of bodies washed up on Bamburgh’s shores.

Bamburgh Castle has been used as a backdrop in many images and paintings, and of course as the main subject. Turner and many other artists have captured the famous coastal landmark. The castle has been used as a backdrop for many films, including Mary Queen of Scotts, starring Glenda Jackson (1971); Roman Polanski’s Macbeth (1971); scenes from Elizabeth, starring Cate Blanchett and Joseph Fiennes, were shot on the dunes near the castle (1998).

Media contact: Chris Calvert, Director 01668 214 208.

Follow the Coastal Castle Trail...

Distance from Bamburgh to Holy Island – 16 miles (35-minute drive)

By car: Head out of Bamburgh on the B1342 hugging the coastline past Budle Bay. Turn right on reaching the A1. Turn right at Beal at The Lindisfarne Inn, following signs to Holy Island of Lindisfarne. Parking is available in the village.

Warning: As its name suggests, Lindisfarne is an island linked to the mainland by a causeway which is covered by the sea twice a day. Safe crossings are posted at the entrance to the causeway, on www.lindisfarne.org.uk in local newspapers, Tourist Information Centres or by texting TIDE + DATE to 60300. Charges apply. Respect the tides or run the risk of driving into the North Sea.

By bus: Arriva 505connect Newcastle with Berwick upon Tweed and stop at the A1 at Beal (5 miles from the Island. A local service, Route 477 operates between Berwick upon Tweed and Holy Island. www.lindsifarne.org.uk  gives further details of bus services.  On the island, a mini bus shuttle runs to and from the car park to the Castle from Easter to the end of October. Charges apply.

Lindisfarne Castle, Holy Island

– 15 miles south of Berwick upon Tweed

From its commanding position atop a volcanic mound known as Beblowe Craig, Lindisfarne Castle offers magnificent views of the Northumberland coast and out to sea. It’s clear to see why the castle was built in 1570 to safeguard England’s last deep water port before the Anglo-Saxon border.

A garrison for more than 300 years, Lindisfarne Castle would have been a naval depot of the importance Portsmouth has today. Its job - to protect English ships at dock there from enemy Scots attacks. Lindisfarne’s south facing defensive position meant gunners stationed there could have engaged any ship approaching the harbour below. 

Once James VI of Scotland was brought to the English throne in 1603 Lindisfarne Castle lost its importance as a border fort. But despite this, a garrison remained there until the late 19th century.

Little-known history

Gunpowder store - In 1883 the castle held 156 barrels of gunpowder in two storerooms (or 'Magazines') – 120 barrels more than Guy Fawkes’ Gunpowder Plot which packed 36 barrels under the Houses of Parliament in 1605. What’s more, the barrels used by Fawkes’ conspirators were likely to have held 50lb of explosives. Lindisfarne’s barrels held 100lb - meaning Lindisfarne stored about eight times the gunpowder to blow James VI and his armies skyward! 

The guns and soldiers were removed in 1893 and the castle was bought by Mr Edward Hudson, founder of Country Life magazine. The Castle was converted into a habitable holiday retreat for him. And while the building on show today is largely the result of that conversion, look carefully at the doors and in certain light you can still make out the names “Magazine” and “Artillery Store” and many of the rooms themselves have vaulted ceilings, designed to take the weight of canon fire.

The castle featured in Roman Polanski’s Cul-de-Sac (1966); Time Team programmes have focused on archaeological finds at both Bamburgh and Holy Island.

Bed down at

The Bamburgh Castle Inn, Seahouses, NE68 7SQ. Experience unbelievable views and good value accommodation at this seaside inn. Looking out over the harbour, the Bamburgh Castle Inn has views to Bamburgh Castle and Lindisfarne Castle. Costs from £40 per person per night, dinner, bed and breakfast.

01665 720283 www.bamburghcastleinn.co.uk

Eat at

The Crown and Anchor, Market Square, Holy Island TD15 2RX.  Tucked away in the top left hand corner of the Market Square on Holy Island, this friendly pub is the place where locals and visitors rub shoulders while tucking into locally sourced fish, shell fish and meat. The haddock and chips should not be missed.

01289 389215 www.holyislandcrown.co.uk

Raise a glass at

The Ship Inn at Low Newton-by-the-Sea, NE66 3EL is just up from the beach with views towards Dunstanburgh Castle. With its own micro brewery on site, sinking a real ale here is one of life’s simple treats.

01665 576262 www.shipinnnewton.co.uk.